| Don't worry, the blog isn't going "soft" or "artsy." But with that said, below is a little poem that my bud Chapman Murphy wrote.
A cook on the Red Rooster III and a big-wave hellman who was born, raised and still lives in Point Loma when not in Tahiti or Hawaii or Mexico or wherever else his time off takes him, Chapman has surfed some pretty big (actually huge) waves; he also had 7 of those big bluefin when the Rooster had THE trip of the year on the big BFT. Here he is in Mex:
And here are some words he crafted up on the Red Rooster:
The sun arises in its eastern zone, to feel alone on this ocean roam.
Windswept and blown without a home, sculpted tuff this heart of stone. Love ever flowing but also unknowing, swells coming and going, manifested from the storm, waves to ride to battle ones pride, like thoughts of mind manifested for a future time. Some catchable while others go by as if I'm blind.
To be true to ones’ self, to flow with the ocean currents pure heart and soul, and not worry or dwell, on the bell, for whom it tolls.
Pulses and lulls, a life of goals. Old ones satisfied, new goals to be gratified, simply thoughts, nothings — until something creates them.
Like the storm creates the swell which I ride to battle my pride. Watch me go constantly trying to simmer this ego. Approaching the shore the waves crumble and tumble, trying to be humble. Life being not a bore, but a learning store. Purchases thru pain, love, and more.
Sun setting, green flash, oh wow.
Here comes one more, another day offshore.
--CAM
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