CALIFORNIA'S ONLY SPORTSMAN'S NEWS SINCE 1953

Grady Istre's Blog



FIELD DOGS /
WON News Column by Grady Istre

WON’s canine columnist Grady Istre was born into a family of waterfowl hunters, but as he grew up so did his passion and appreciation for any kind of bird hunting.

His knowledge of dog behavior has been gained through his 30 plus years of training both competition and hunting dogs. He takes pride in the fact that he trains the hunter as well as the dog which makes a very productive team in the field.



Overhandling your flushing dog
With the upland bird hunting season opening this month, I thought some info on handling your flushing dog might be in order. Hopefully, it will help you have a more successful and rewarding hunt.

Often, when people talk about “handling” a dog, they mean giving hand signals to direct a dog to a fallen bird, but that’s not what I mean to discuss here. Sometimes, we do direct a flushing dog to a bird he hasn’t seen by giving him “back” and “over” commands and that’s helpful, but it’s more important for a flushing dog to find birds in the first place. And, when he does find the bird, to be in shooting range. Both these necessities take training and, then, experience, but these experiences should be in a disciplined format.


When I school clients who hunt with a flushing dog, I recommend that they first make their dog sit before releasing him to hunt a field. That’s because it’s a good idea to start out in a disciplined manner. Then, when you release the dog, he is in a somewhat obedient frame of mind.


Send the dog out into the field and allow him to quest, watching for his natural tail and head movements that can indicate when he has caught scent of game. The idea is to have the dog move in a nice flowing motion, on his own, but fairly close to you and attentive to your commands. Your hunting companions will appreciate this because no one wants to hear a handler yelling or whistling at his dog all day long. Even though it’s not a good idea to interfere with the dog while he’s enthusiastically questing, if he gets out of control and ignores you, you should react right away. A disobedient attitude needs to be corrected immediately or it can become a bad habit.


The proper hunting situation is when the dog gets into a rhythm and moves back and forth in front of the gunners while you walk quietly behind him. This is how I describe an ideal hunt to my clients, but some of them seem to have taken my cautions too far. In an effort to control their dogs, they have intruded so much on their dogs’ natural tendencies that they have lost that balance between the “hunt” and the “control.” They have gotten into “over-handling” in the field. Their fears of having the dog get out of gun range, or having the dog become dis­obedient has caused them to whistle or call the dog in­cessantly. As a result, they’ve almost taken the quest and natural hunting instincts out of their animals. Some sensitive dogs will quit the hunt al­together and return to their handler’s side.


Sometimes it’s hard to find that perfect balance of obedience and natural instinct. My advice is to step back and take a good look at your dog as this season begins. Is he happy in the field, yet tuned into you? Is he loose enough to hunt for birds, yet attentive when you call to him? If you get the feeling that the two of you are partners out there under the morning sky, enjoy it. You’ve got something most people can only dream of: a wonderful hunting companion that brings pride and joy to the hunt.


Good hunting.


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Grady’s column appears every other week in WON, he can be reached at reibar.com




Checking For Injury
Many hunters just do not give their dogs a proper physical examination after a hard day afield. Every hunting dog should be given a good going over after a hunt, no matter how short or long the outing.

It’s amazing how many hunters will not accept responsibility for examining their dogs, even when someone reminds them to do so. The answer I get most is, “if there were something wrong with him, I’d know it.” That’s probably true, providing the animal has an injury that is obvious, such as a limp, or blood on his coat.


Have you ever heard the phrase; dogs suffer in silence. Well that’s a fact, especially when dealing with a hunting dog; they will suffer through most painful injuries just to keep doing what they love. I know of a hard charging retriever who one day during a training session, hit the water so hard he broke off a willow branch that lodged six inches into his chest without his owner ever knowing anything was wrong until later that night when he was ex-rayed by a vet. The dog survived, but was unable to compete for many months; it was a very serious injury that went completely unnoticed until long after the training was over. If your dog does anything out of character while in the field, don’t be foolish, bring him in a check him over.


This past season I began noticing just how many of the guys I hunted with actually gave their dogs a physical examination after the hunt. I am fortunate to be invited by clients who hunt Mexico on a regular basis. The pheasant hunting across the border is nothing short of fabulous. The larger percentage of our hunts are in large alfalfa field, and it’s unlikely that a dog will get injured in such a well cultivated area, but these guys checked their dogs feet after every field we hunted; I was very impressed and proud by their attentiveness. Hopefully, my teachings had something to do with that.


Sometimes, when we do not find birds in the alfalfa, we are forced to hunt the many ditches that carry the irrigation water to the various agricultural fields in the area. These small waterways are dangerous; some of them hold everything from old automobiles to broken glass and many other objects that can harm your dog. Needless to say, these ditches are well scouted by everyone, before ever putting a dog in them.


Preventative measures, and checking your dog after every hunt will make you a more responsible dog owner; it may even save your dog’s life. Know the dangers in the area you plan to hunt as well, find out if the area has any cactus, lava rock or old farm equipment, just to mention a few of the common hazards.


The three areas on my dog that I check closely are, his eyes, feet and I rub my hand over my dog’s entire body to determine whether he has any cuts; if he does, your hands will come out bloody. The few seconds that it takes to thoroughly examine your dog in the manner I just described will someday, save you and your dog a bunch of pain and grief later on down the road.


Our hunting dogs add so much happiness to our lives; the least we can do is make the small effort that it takes to see that they have not been injured during a hunt.


Good Hunting!


Grady Istre can be reached at Reibar.com. 


Buying a started dog
With the wild bird season rapidly approaching, many hunters are considering the purchase of a started dog to enhance their hunting experience to help put more birds in the bag this year. I know this because of the many confused hunters who have called me asking what skills a started dog should possess. Unfortunately, there is no governing body in the gun dog world to measure the level of competence of any hunting dog world to set a standard of performance or skill level by which you can gauge a potential candidate when considering purchasing a started dog. So when you’re considering purchasing a started dog, you’re on your own.

The term “started dog” is used for any dog with any amount of training under his belt. It can mean anything from a puppy that has had a mild course of obedience to a well-trained dog that take hand signals — I know, it’s crazy, but that’s the dilemma faced by sportsmen today.


It’s okay to have a preconceived idea as to the talent level of the prospective dog you would like to purchase. However, when talking to a seller it’s best to do most of the listening. If you are a novice hunter, you might consider hiring someone knowledgeable to help you assess the quality and training level of a dog you are considering purchasing. So you’re better educated, I have compiled a list of questions that should help anyone who is having trouble deciding.


# 1. How old is the dog? Keep in mind that the older the dog the more training he has — generally speaking of course.


# 2. Is the dog genetically sound and clear of ( EIC) exercise induced collapse? Not only the parents but grandparents should have OFA certificates for hips dysplasia.


# 3. What is his training level? Your decision, how well trained a dog do you want.


# 4. What is his pedigree? It’s always a good idea to purchase a dog with good blood lines, showing hunt titles and /or field trial titles in the near background.


# 5. If the dog is a bird dog, does he dog hold point and is he steady to shot. Does he quarter at a desired distance and does he retrieve downed birds? These skills are important gauges as to his training level.


If purchasing this started dog from a professional trainer, ask if there are any free lessons included with the purchase. Most trainers want you to be happy with your dog and will be willing to do so.


In my experience, many hunters expect too much. They want the animal to have all the skills of a field champion, and he only one year old. I often have to bring up that point to a prospective buyer’s attention and that it takes time to train a dog to become proficient at his job.


Fellow hunters, In my opinion, the best possible scenario is to purchase a dog that not only has learned his skills, but has at least one season of hunting under his belt; be advised, that dog will cost more.


Buying a 3- or 4-year old dog should be considered even though it's tempting to think, “I want to get as many years out of this dog as possible.” The joy of hunting over a well-trained dog cannot be measured in age or dollars and cents. Owning a well-trained, seasoned dog will elevate your hunting experience to a level that will bring you a sense of pride that you probably didn’t even know existed.


Still, one important factor remains when considering any individual dog. And it’s an intangible necessity, you’ve got to like the dog. If you don’t, do not purchase the dog. It won’t work. Although rare, the personality of a dog and man sometimes clash. So, if you don’t feel a genuine connection with the animal, it’s best to walk away, no matter how good the deal.


Good Hunting!


* * *

Grady’s column appears in WON every other week and he can be reached at reibar.com


Off-season program
Very few hunters are receptive to the idea of maintaining their dog’s skill level during the off season and I believe that’s a big mistake. I hope that after I explain just how uncomplicated it can be to retain your hunting dog’s skills throughout the summer months, you’ll use some of this knowledge so your dog will be field ready when the first bird season opens in September.

The ideal training situation is to work your dog for about ten minutes on a daily basis — that’s all. Then if possible, once a month you should get together with some of your hunting buddies to prepare a training session where you shoot birds, to simulate hunting conditions for all of your dogs.


If you don’t have time to work your dog on a daily basis, that’s okay, but do figure out what days you have available and set up a training schedule. As I have learned, if you do not do this chances are you won’t get around to making it happen. Then, the closer we get to the opening day of the season, it’s a good idea to increase the frequency and length of those training sessions. This will not only sharpen your dog’s skills, but get him in good physical shape as well.


Dogs play the hand they are dealt, so if you want your hunting dog to become a pet during the summer months, guess what: he’ll become a pet. That means that his discipline level will slip during this time and so will his willingness to perform the skills he has learned. Conversely, if you maintain his training, he’ll be an even more obedient pet for the whole family to enjoy.


All dogs want is a modicum of consistency in their lives. They want you to be dependable. They want to be able to count on some sort of routine. They want to know what is going to happen next and just exactly what role they play in that scenario. When their lives are predictable, dogs tend to become better citizens.


If you can’t go training on a given day, just sitting in a chair in the backyard reading the paper, book or magazine with your dog by your side can suffice in a certain way. Dogs have to learn patience on those slow days when the ducks and/or dove are not flying well. So, just lounging in your lawn chair throwing him a bumper every once in a while is maintaining a certain training level and that’s about as easy as it gets, fellow trainers.


Still, if your dog has achieved handling status, there are drills like the wagon wheel that can give him a better understanding of the line to a downed bird. The casting drill will also sharpen up his interpretation of your hand signals when directing him to a fallen bird.


Hopefully, I have pointed out just how simple or how complicated you can make your summer training schedule. It’s your choice. Training your dog need not be a chore. It should be fun and bring a certain pride of accomplishment to your life.


So, get creative this summer, make a training schedule and if you don’t like my suggestions, create your own. But train your dog. Please.


Have fun training!


 * * *

Grady Istre’s articles appear every other week in WON and he can be reached at reibar.com.








Watch your language
Are you one of those owners who expects your young pup to be born a mind reader and fluent in English? Sometimes I get that impression when I watch novice dog owners with their young dogs. They say things to their dogs like, “Hey, what are you doin’? Didn’t I tell you to sit? Sit, sit! I mean it! Come back here and sit!”

The running dialogue would be comical except that the confused look on their pup’s face isn’t funny. The most important thing I can teach my clients is this: use single word commands. And, never repeat them. That sounds simple, but it’s not. It takes lots of self-control on the part of the human.

It all begins with building vocabulary with a young pup. And, it does starts with the “sit” command. This is your chance to get it right the first time. When you push down on the little guy’s rump while pushing up on his chest and saying “sit,” you say that word just one time. Then, you release him. When you repeat the action, you repeat the word. Once. For the rest of his life, you introduce each new word — each new command — the same way. It’s the key to proper training and it will make everything fall into place in a really wonderful way.

When a dog fails to perform a command, like “sit,” you have a choice. If the dog is just learning, and is in the schooling phase, you can push the dog’s rump down again, or if more advanced, correct the dog by a nick with the collar, or tap with the stick, and then say the “sit” command again. But, repeating the command without an action of some sort should be avoided. That’s because a string of “sit” “sit” “sit” makes any word lose its strength and you’ll find that the dog will then become accustomed to waiting for you to always repeat words forever after. I mean, why obey the first time?

Make every command word an actual command. Not part of a string of words. Let it hang there alone in the air for the dog to digest, process and then perform. Dogs can remember quite a large vocabulary if you keep each word clear and not allow it to get muddled up within phrases. Sometimes, it’s a good idea to imagine yourself in the dog’s place. Then you can hear yourself through his ears.

I actually heard a handler say,”Get back over here!” to his dog. Just picture performing those three commands: the dog would run out on the ‘back’ command, run to a ninety-degree angle on the ‘over’ command and return to the handler’s side on ‘here.’ It’s ridiculous. And, it’s obvious that this dog had to learn to ignore the meaning of his owner’s words.

Other words that are repeated that lose their meaning are the praise words like “good dog.” Please, save those also. If you want to cut loose and have fun with your dog and enjoy him as a companion, go for a walk and tell him a story that doesn’t have any training words in it. Point out the leafy trees and the blooming flowers or just sing a song. Watch your words carefully.

Good training!

You can reach Grady Istre at reibar.com

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