Grady Istre's Blog

WON News Column by Grady Istre

WON’s canine columnist Grady Istre was born into a family of waterfowl hunters, but as he grew up so did his passion and appreciation for any kind of bird hunting.

His knowledge of dog behavior has been gained through his 30 plus years of training both competition and hunting dogs. He takes pride in the fact that he trains the hunter as well as the dog which makes a very productive team in the field.

The fine art of training a dog
Dog training is comprised of two things: repetition and correction. Repeti­tion is involved when teaching commands to get a certain desired behavior. Correction involves the discipline part of training and is used when a dog insists on a wrong action after he understands what the right action is.

Understanding the difference between defiance and confusion is something that takes experience working with many dogs. But, there are people who seem to know dog behavior better than others, and those people are just plain lucky. Most dog owners don’t really know whether their dog is faking bad behavior to get attention or when the dog simply doesn’t understand what the right action is.

Over the years, I have observed a big variety of dog owners with both hunting dogs and field trial dogs. In both categories, they have had lots of success. Those owners/trainers who have little natural understanding of the nature of dog have worked harder than the natural trainers but they have arrived at their goals anyway. They have learned how to succeed, through hard work and lots of repetition.

Dogs like to work. They will respond to the trainer regardless of the training method used because they want the feeling of success that comes through praise and proper actions is a huge reward. They are open to communication with their owner or trainer and study that person almost as much as the human seeks to understand them.

That’s the beauty of these animals and what keeps old trainers like me out in the field every day. I tell my clients that most any sensible training method they choose will work if they persist and are consistent. More knowledge is gained through working the dog than through watching videos and reading books. A good dog will try mightily to please his human even when the human goes about training in an unorthodox way.

Here’s an example. In teaching a young dog to heel on leash, one owner may keep his dog on a tight rein and another may allow a loose leash. The first owner won’t know when his dog is actually accepting the “heel” command and walking obediently at his side. The second owner will allow the dog to surge ahead, then give him a jerk on the leash to have him return to his side; now the dog must walk obediently out of his own choice. The latter is a better way to train because it gives the dog options and makes the proper action come from the dog; the dog submits and the lesson is better retained because it was learned from the dog’s own decision. Still, both teams of dog and owner will be successful and reach their goals. Again, dogs want to learn, and that means that repetition of any sort will bring reward.

So, fellow trainers, never worry unnecessarily about your own training expertise. You will be successful no matter how you train, as long as you are fair and persistent. Through work, the team of man and dog will bring rewards. Not only in getting the birds in the field, but also in everyday life. Remember that dogs can’t read books, nor can they watch training videos.

Have fun training!

* * *

Grady’s articles appear in WON every other week and he can be reached at

Gundog hand signals
Bird hunters who hunt with dogs can get a little restless a month or so after the wild bird season has ended. If you are one of those hunters, and are looking to advance your dog’s hunting skills for next season, I suggest teaching him to take basic hand signals. It’s not as difficult as you might imagine, and can only enhance your communication with your dog.

Unfortunately, many hunters seem to know very little about how to implement skills of higher learning. Most of the gundogs I sell are trained to take hand signals. As part of my sales contract, I offer five free lessons for the person who purchases a dog I have trained.

In all of these years, I’ve had only one person come back for a lesson, and he only came one time. None of these people got their money’s worth because the lessons were part of the value. Also, these new owners possibly failed to establish the best communication with their new dogs, and very likely didn’t transfer the high level of respect their dog was accustomed to.

Still, there are quite a few gun dog owners who have trained their own dogs to take basic hand signals. They feel a basic course is all they need, and in many cases they’re correct. However, one of the biggest problems these novice trainers face is having their dogs go beyond a fallen bird or even the decoys spread to retrieve a dead or wounded bird. What some of these inexper­ienced trainers do not understand is that it’s an innate part of all dogs to perform something familiar, unless otherwise trained. So, guess what’s going to happen when you drop one duck in the decoys and then sail one beyond them that your dog does not see fall. When you send your dog on a blind retrieve to fetch the duck that fell beyond the decoys, guess where he’s going to stop: right where he picked up the last duck. If he is not trained to handle through a distraction, you’re either going to have to get out of your of duck blind and help the dog find that bird or consider it a lost bird — which is never okay in my book.

So here’s how you train your dog to go beyond distractions such as, roads, ditches, fallen birds or decoys.

First, teach your dog a known blind retrieve of at least 50 yards in distance. Once your dog has made a retrieve to this location many times and you consider the “blind” well established and solid in his mind, it’s time to add a distraction. Always run the blind a couple of times before each session to remind your trainee of its location. Then throw a bumper 90 degrees to your right or left, and have your dog retrieve that bumper.

When he returns with the bumper, line him up and send him for the known blind; if you have any problem, move forward a few steps towards the blind. As your dog gets more and more familiar with this procedure and completely understands what you’re expecting of him, it’s time to start moving the thrown bumper closer to the line to the blind. Eventually, your goal is to be able to throw the distraction bumper on the same line to the blind and have your dog run through the bumper he just picked up and get the blind. If he stops, simply handle him through with a back command.

Teaching this concept and then having your trainee flawlessly perform the procedure many, many times will solidify the process in your dog’s mind. If you have a bird source, it’s a good idea to teach this process with birds before taking it to the field. You may even want to get a little creative and use a wing-clipped pigeon as the distraction bird.

If your dog goes through the area where he picked up the fluttering bird to get the blind, you can probably depend on him to perform well under hunting conditions.

Have fun training!

* * *

Grady’s columns appear in WON every other week and he can be reached at

What did you learn?
Do you want to have a more productive hunt next season? The only way I know of to accomplish that is to review this past season’s performance.

To begin, think about your dog's behavior in your pre-training sessions before the season began. After a long layoff, dogs tend to be a bit on the unruly side. Instead of having to use harsh discipline to get your dog under control, I would suggest that you start your pre-hunting training a bit earlier to give yourself time to iron out problems well before the coming season.

Another gauge of obedience is to assess how your dog acted in his usual environment away from the field. A good balance between work at home and in the field is a proper goal. An assessment about two months before the season begins should be adequate — that's what I recommend to all of my clients.

Also, how did your dog act around the clubhouse or the motel? Unless your dog lives with the family at home and is totally comfortable on the inside of a public dwelling, I would suggest bringing your dog crate into the motel room to avoid unnecessary problems.

And, at the clubhouse, if you know your dog has an aggressive nature, it's not a good idea to bring your dog inside. In my experience, I have found that most hunt clubs will allow dogs into the clubhouse as long as they get along with other dogs and people. Dogs in that setting seem to add a primitive nature to the gathering that most hunters enjoy. I know I do.

Of course, the bottom line for any hunting dog is how well did he perform in the field. I encourage clients to maintain a modicum of control over their dogs, which I believe begins with steadiness. If you brush up your dog on his steadiness, everything else seems to fall into place.

But sometimes there can be problems you can foresee! For example: I was invited by a client to hunt ducks at his club in Los Banos this past January, and on the morning of the hunt we were pleased to have what I consider an adequate amount of ducks coming towards our blind to harvest a double limit.

But the ducks wouldn’t come into our decoys. Instead, they would flare just out of gun range. Baffled and frustrated, I finally got out of the sunken blind In an effort to see what was going on. I couldn't see a damned thing wrong with the decoys spread or our setting, yet the ducks continued to flare. As noon time approached, I noticed that our Black Labrador Retriever was wagging her tail, vigorously. I had to laugh when i figured out that her happy attitude had been our problem all along.

The motion of her tail was so extreme that small rocks were scattering about. Late-season ducks are quite wary, and even a small movement is enough to make them flare away from an area. These days, waterfowl coming down all the flyways are getting so much pressure from hunters that we need to take extra measures to avoid detection. During all the years that I hunted the Louisiana marshes, I never concealed my dog. But times have changed, fellow hunters.

There are quite a few manufacturers that make nice dog blinds but they are cumbersome and difficult in some cases to carry out to your blind. I suggest you consider taking a camo blanket instead. We could have used one to cover our dog’s tail action. That’s one of the things I learned this past season. Controlling your environment takes a bit of study, but the one thing you can certainly control is your dog.

Observing your dog’s habits in all areas will aid you in preparing for the next season. In order to make your dog a better companion and hunting dog it's important that you remember, and write down, what he did at home, at the motel, the clubhouse, and especially in the field.

Good hunting!

* * *

Grady Istre’s column appears in WON every other week and he can be reached art

It starts with a puppy
Now that the hunting season is over, a new season begins for some of you: puppy season.

Although it’s fun to play with a new pup, for the hunter it’s also rewarding to start off the little guy in a way that will introduce him to his future world in a good way. After the pup has had a few days with you and his new surroundings, you can begin to teach him some one-word commands. It starts with crate training. Giving the pup his own space — his crate — is helpful when he needs to sleep or take a break from the excitement of his new world. This is a great time to teach him the word “kennel.” This is a perfect command because that word doesn’t sound like any other. If you gently put him inside and say “kennel.” he will begin to go in on his own in a short time. Then a “good dog” is warranted and you begin the process of reinforcement when he performs a correct action to any command.

Later you can begin to teach the “sit” command by pushing down on his backside just before you put down his food. You can’t expect him to remain sitting, but this is a good introduction to the word, and food is his reward.

You can also introduce him to the “fetch” command just by saying the word as you throw a toy.

You can also begin the housebreaking process by taking him outside to do his business right after you take him out of his crate. Taking the pup to one spot in the yard is a good idea because he will begin to associate going potty with that area and this makes your command “go potty” clear. At first, you will need to carry the puppy to the designated spot then wait to praise him when he performs properly.

Actually, its important to praise your pup every time he obeys any of your commands because this reinforces their meaning through repetition. And that’s the key: repetition.

It’s good for any puppy to be handled often. Cuddling and petting are great, with an emphasis on praise when the pup deserves it. And that’s important: to praise only when deserved. Having every member of the family on board is critical because the commands should be shown to everyone for consistency.

It’s also important for the pup to spend time alone with you if his destiny is to be a good hunting dog. Short walks with you build rapport and respect. You can take the pup in the car, in his crate, to introduce him to fields where you plan to train him in the future. However, even though the pup has had vaccinations, it’s wise to avoid places like dog parks where other dogs have been. The risk of contracting the Parvo virus is just too great.

Working with a new puppy can be rewarding in many ways. If you start him off properly, you will avoid correcting bad habits in the future. Eager little minds absorb whatever they see, so this is the time to show your pup which actions are good, to avoid allowing bad actions to develop.

Starting off right with a new pup takes attention and commitment. But you will be ahead of the game when you begin formal training, and fewer corrections will be necessary. The key to a hunting partnership with your dog is a relationship built on respect. That is the platform that leads to the kind of devotion that only comes from a dog.

Have fun training!

* * *

Grady’s articles appear in WON every other week, and he can be reached at

Extending water marks
With the duck season in full swing, I thought a discussion about extending water marks would be helpful to the many water fowlers who are preparing their dogs for the season. Every duck hunter I know wants his dog to be able to retrieve a bird that has sailed into the next pond a good distance away.

Most dogs will learn that skill simply by being put in that position many times during waterfowl hunts over the years, but, you’re going to lose a bunch of birds until he learns that on his own. So, it’s best to teach any concepts to your dog in a controlled environment so he’s prepared to quickly learn and be confident when this scenario presents itself in the field.

I’m sure you’ve heard the old saying, “not all dogs are created equal,” well that covers more territory than one might imagine. The fact is, no two dogs learn at the same rate. Therefore, as a trainer you should learn just how quickly you can push your dog so you don’t overdo lessons and confuse or depress your trainee. You can easily slow down or setback the learning process if you push too hard.

The easiest way I have found to increase a dog’s retrieving distance on water marks is to first increase the distance he retrieves on land. While you work on land, you should also continue to increase his distance on water, but in much smaller increments. On land marks, dogs are not restricted in their movement and they can run their little legs off if they choose.

Water marks are different. Dogs have to exercise a great deal of self control in order to complete a long water mark. Until they learn descent self-control dogs prefer to do things quickly and the water just slows them down. That’s why you’ll need to accomplish long swims over time. Extending the swim in stages is necessary to give the dog confidence and build his stamina. Increase the distance until they have the self control to swim the distance you are trying to achieve. Of course, so that he knows and performs all of the basic commands.

To begin, find a pond that has a greater distance across than you feel your dog can accomplish. Have your bird thrower on the other side and give him six or so bumpers. Then have your helper throw the bumper towards you and your dog to land at a distance you feel is a doable retrieve for your trainee. I’m sure you can see that the goal is to gradually increase the distance until the young dog is retrieving all the way to the other shore.

At any point, if you should happen to overdo the distance, and your pup falters, have the bird boy give the dog some “Hup, hup, hups” and throw multiple bumpers towards the dog in an attempt to keep him coming. Do whatever it takes to get the animal to retrieve the bumper, even if he starts to come in. in that case, you have to throw a bumper in front of the incoming dog yourself. It’s not a good idea to ever allow your pup to get the idea that he can come in without a bumper or bird.

Unfortunately, it not only the dogs that need self-control. Many inexperienced trainers try to accomplish a task or skill in one lesson, that’s not a good idea fellow trainers.

A young dog can easily get discouraged if you insist he retrieve long water marks that are out of his present retrieving range. Give your dog every opportunity to learn his needed skills through a safe, secure and confidence-building environment. You’ll reap the benefits of your efforts through the increased birds in your bag at the end of the hunt and the impressed the envious cronies in the clubhouse.

Good hunting!

* * *

Grady’s column appears every other week in WON and he can be reached at

Page 1 of 33 First | Previous | Next | Last

The Longfin Tackle Shop